ADVENTURES IN MADRID

Retiro Park


Once I touched down in Madrid, I immediately set out with my camera, determined not to let jet lag get the best of me. I bought my ten-ride pass and headed east to the largest park I knew, Retiro Park. Breathing in the fresh air of the park awakened my senses and revitalized my body. Although I had slept a bit, rest during flights is inconsistent at best. The freshness of the outdoors gave me the energy I needed to get through the afternoon. 

I walked to the northern end of the park, where a grand columned structure stood, adorned with statues representing Person and Person. During my previous visit to the park, rain dampened the experience and limited my time there. This time, the sun was shining, birds were singing, and there was plenty of space to roam without encountering a large crowd. I was disappointed that the Palacio de Cristal was closed for repairs. Twice now, I have been thwarted in my attempts to visit a place I have long desired to see, once due to construction and the other due to rain.

The most pleasant aspect of my walk through Retiro Park was the evidence of the autumn season. Leaves that still clung precariously to their existence were a palette of reds, golds, and ambers. The paths were surprisingly clear, so I heard the soft padding of soles on pavement and dirt rather than the crunching of leaves that I had expected. The people were also in autumn mode, wearing warm jackets and earthy tones along with sporty shoes. I wrapped myself in my camel coat, a source of safety and comfort beyond mere protection from the elements, and walked along, pausing only to take photos.


Temple De Debod


After enjoying my wonderful dessert in the park near the bakery, I walked along the path, savoring the green space in the midst of such a bustling city. The views were incredible, and I walked up the pathway to find myself next to the Temple de Debod. I was pleasantly surprised by my discovery and took my time to capture photos. There were many people, though not in mass, wandering around the temple, either sightseeing or simply resting at the edge of the empty pool. As an Egyptology enthusiast, seeing something of Egyptian architecture in Madrid felt like a drop into an awaiting well, hoping to experience real Egypt in the future. The temple is not a large structure, but I can imagine it being a marvelous sight when the pool is full, and the sun sets behind the stones. 


Cathedral of Saint Mary the Royal of the Almudena


I walked by the Palacio Real and saw the Cathedral with its doors open. Hardly anyone was entering at that moment, so I decided to explore it. Why not? The cathedral was beautiful inside, with many arches dividing several spaces of the church, like wings. I enjoy visiting cathedrals when I travel, not just for the architectural marvels they represent or the reverence they inspire. It is the silence that draws me into the sacred halls and sanctuaries. The respect of congregants and their solemn deference to the sanctity of a holy place provide a quiet and restorative break from the busyness of the streets just outside the sacred walls. Time slows, and the burdens one carries feel lighter, figuratively speaking.  


Biblioteca Nacional de España


As a writer, I enjoy visiting local libraries and bookshops, both to support literature and to find a quiet, familiar place for peace. In addition to museums and churches, bookshops and libraries serve as a serene and cherished space where I feel at ease. The familiarity of books and the smell of countless pages filled with adventures, knowledge, and truth provide comfort regardless of language.  

I intended to spend some time at the Biblioteca Nacional de España, but upon arrival, I had to state my purpose. If I had no plan to actually study or check out books, I could not enter its sacred walls. Even so, I  wandered through the hall with old and rare books, climbed the marble staircase, and viewed the special chamber for the BNE Royal Board, which is strictly off-limits to enter.


Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía


I chose to utilize the Paseo de Arte, a museum pass for three major museums in Madrid.  I was eager to see the Sofia Reina because of its collection of works by Dalí and Picasso, including the Cubist master’s Guernica.  It was fascinating to observe early works by both artists that little resembled their more popular collections.  I especially loved a piece by Dalí featuring a lady in purple with crossed hands.  The Guernica was busy, as expected, but more intriguing were the photos on the wall opposite that revealed the process of creating the marvelous work of art. One could see parts that were later covered over with a different design, while others remained constant throughout.  

I also really enjoyed a small salon dedicated to female artists.  Although it was small, it was lovely to see the pieces created by female hands- each name unfamiliar and hardly famous, but powerful in both structure and color. Out of all the rooms and works of art, one in this room struck me the most. The shadowed profile of a woman and the most vivid green in the background was the most beautiful piece I had seen.


Royal Palace of Madrid


On my last day in Madrid, I devoted most of my time to visiting the Palacio Real de Madrid.  It was a blazing sunny day, so my photos of the central square showed strong contrasts, but what fascinated me more was the interior.  The splendid entry into the foyer of the palace was impressive, featuring antique lamps, a ceiling adorned with an exquisite painting, and glowing round windows. 

Each room was more incredible and ostentatious than the last.  There were giant chandeliers, a room that looked as though it had been embroidered, and others completely made of porcelain. I felt both awe and distaste.  The artist's work in creating the rooms is a sight to behold, but from a social standpoint, it seemed rather gaudy to witness so much wealth and splendor when it was utterly unnecessary.  There was even a room solely for the purpose of a sovereign to smoke his cigars.  

One sight that caught my attention was the room with the crown and scepter, along with documentation of Juan Carlos I's abdication in favor of his son Felipe VI. Outside the historic room were large banners showcasing the past ten years of the current sovereign's reign and the future ascension of his eldest daughter, Leonor, Princess of Asturias. I was struck by the thought of the future queen, a woman who will take on the scepter of power and represent a country that will witness a woman ruling. I felt proud of how the scene displayed confidence in the monarchy during such a transition, but it also made me reflect on my own country and its lack of female representation. Nevertheless, the hope for a world with more female rulers was a comforting thought. 


STREETS OF MADRID


I visited several bookshops in Madrid and found wonderful books in Spanish for my children. I discovered Veinte Mil Leguas de Viaje Submarino by Jules Verne for my son and a secondhand book about princesas at the popular Libreria Perez Galdos near the Gran Vía. It can be surprisingly difficult to find books in Spanish in the US, so having a plethora of stories with new and used books in our family's second language was a wonderful opportunity. Although I did not find a copy for myself, I returned home with a small etching of a landscape I found at the El Rastro Market.  It hangs above my desk and reminds me of my solo adventures.