ADVENTURES IN BARCELONA

Day 12 - December 23

I woke up to my first morning in Barcelona with great anticipation. I found a gluten-free bakery during my trip research and knew it was nearby. After dressing in black jeans, a sweater, and a camel coat, I set off alone. Oh, how wonderful it was to be by myself! I relished a moment of solitude in Valencia, but that walk through Turia Park was fueled more by frustration than a desire for peace. The hour was early by Spanish standards, around eight in the morning, and very few people were seen walking along the popular Passeig de Gràcia until I could veer off onto a pedestrian-only path. The air was cool, but the sun shone and glimmered off the metal on bikes, café chairs, and railings. 

I discovered Jansana Gluten Free Bakery, where a line stretched outside the door. I took my place in line and surveyed the delightful pastries on offer. I spotted sugary donuts, cream-filled Napolitano pastries, and flaky croissants. If not for the symbol on the door depicting a stalk of wheat struck through, anyone might mistake the food for a regular panadería. Overwhelmed by so many options, I ordered several croissants: chocolate and plain, along with a small cream-filled pastry. With a cup of coffee for my husband, I was ready to return to the hotel. The pastries smelled heavenly, and when I opened the bag, I noticed a few flaky pieces of the butter croissant floating to the bottom. How was it possible to make gluten-free food like this?! 

I returned to the flat where my kids were just waking up. I delivered the delicious treats and received a joyous response from my family. Soon, we were digging in, and I took a bite of my first croissant in ten years, the last time being in Paris, France. The butter croissant melted in my mouth, and the golden flakes stuck to my fingers. It was incredible. There I was in one of the largest cities in Spain, enjoying the best croissant I had ever tasted. It was better than those soft ones found at grocery stores and even better than in France, with the added benefit that I did not have a reaction. Who knew such a wonder was possible!? (Now, you may remark on my use of exclamation points in this section. Just imagine you haven't been able to eat one of your favorite foods for a decade; when you finally can, it turns out to be better than you could have imagined. You might use a few exclamation points, too.)

We planned to keep the day relatively relaxed after a long day of travel the day before. Our only scheduled stop was the Sagrada Familia in the afternoon. First, though, my husband took our son to the Barcelona Futbol Stadium, where Lionel Messi had played for many years. Meanwhile, I took my daughter to shop for Christmas gifts. We weren’t looking for anything too large or extravagant, just a few items the kids could open on Christmas Day. We visited several stores along Passeig de Gràcia and ended at the large Zara at a corner of the busy street. The shops were bustling with last-minute shoppers, much like back home. My daughter and I found a few things that might suit her, and then we returned to our hotel. The sun had come out, and I realized I was too warm in my camel coat. Yet, many people remained bundled up as if the temperature was forty-two instead of sixty-four degrees.  

We reconvened at lunchtime for our comida and shared stories of the sights we had seen. The discussion mainly focused on my husband and son sharing their experience at the stadium. Unfortunately, due to construction, they were not allowed to go down onto the field, but they did see the Hall of Champions and sit in the stadium seats with a magnificent view, and my son tried to score a goal on a robot goalie.  

We took our time with lunch, allowing ourselves time to sit and rest.  The longer meal times were such a wonderful change from life back home.  Many people wonder about the longer meal times in Europe, but people also walk a lot more.  The time spent on a meal is also a way to rest the body naturally.  This was extremely helpful for my daughter, who had little legs and was only four years old.  By the time we were in Barcelona, she was beginning to be conditioned to do the added walking. Even so, la comida was a wonderful reprieve in the middle of the day.

We quickly returned to our hotel to gather water and cameras before setting off for the Sagrada Familia. Visiting Barcelona isn't complete without seeing the famous cathedral. We found the right train and rode along in anticipation. Following the directions to the cathedral, we rode the escalator up and turned around to see the massive structure towering behind us. The first view of the Sagrada Familia is absolutely breathtaking. Now I understand why so many people try to capture the shot going up the escalator with the cathedral behind them. It feels incredible to see such a wonder of the world up close.  

We walked around the front and saw clear signs stating tickets were only sold online. It was not a problem; the banner provided a link to ensure travelers found the right site. I booked our tickets, but since it was so late in the day, I missed my chance to climb one of the towers. I was extremely disappointed but could only blame myself. I wanted flexibility in our timeline on our first day in the city and hadn’t booked anything until I was sure. Even so, buying digital tickets was easy, and we were soon escorted to the line near the entrance.

Stepping inside a structure like the Sagrada Familia is truly astonishing. No other cathedral on earth compares to it. Throughout my travels, I have explored many magnificent places of worship, but the renowned cathedral stands out in the Barcelona district. The towers outside are striking examples of Gaudí’s late Gothic style. Inside, the soaring arches are a bright white rather than the usual gray. The stained glass windows, designed like flowers, radiate a yellow hue and nearly mimic the sunlight pouring onto the seats below. The ceiling is a remarkable achievement of architectural brilliance. Gaudí envisioned the interior to evoke a forest, featuring large pillars and jagged arches that bolster the structure. The cathedral is a marvel, yet I felt utterly overwhelmed by it all.

I recently transitioned from photography to writing. I had so many ideas that they felt like they were pouring out of me like water. Struggling to focus was compounded by resurfacing imposter syndrome. I started several drafts but felt lost and unfocused. As I looked at the soaring ceiling, soaking in the last light of the setting sun that painted colors along the pillars, I contemplated the significance of art in the space where I stood. Gaudí’s work is rich with symbolism, but with such detail, completing the project has taken a long time. I realized I needed to concentrate more on finishing a project than infusing every ounce of symbolism into my story. I needed to select a story, avoid going overboard with style, and see it through to the end. Many people, I imagine, visit the Sagrada Familia and feel inspired to be more artistic. I experienced the Sagrada Familia and perceived a great wonder, rich in detail, reminding me to keep my projects moving forward and finish them within my lifetime.

We finished viewing the cathedral and stepped through the back doors, where the famous nativity scene was visible. My husband noticed a park across the street, so we let the kids have some time to play. On every trip with the kids, my husband and I plan to visit playgrounds; it’s essential. Even the quietest, well-behaved child needs space outdoors to run around. We let our children dash toward the slides while we found a seat nearby. The air had turned cold as the sun no longer provided its warmth. We huddled and watched our children play with the other kids, releasing their boundless energy.

Occasionally, I would look back at the cathedral in wonder. Even though I found its style a bit busy, it still is a fantastic work of art. As more people poured out of its doors and into the street, some wandered off, while others visited the tourist shops or the Christmas market in the square next to the playground. It was hard to tell who the Spaniards and travelers were. Regardless, every person who walked through the doors of the Sagrada Familia left in awe.

Day 13 - December 24

The following day, I felt excited because we would visit Casa Batlló, another famous building by Antoni Gaudí. There was an option to go early, at eight in the morning, before the crowds, but I couldn't manage to wake up that early. I have a knack for capturing places in photos so they don't appear crowded, so I'm hoping our 10 am start won't be too hectic. 

We arrived with our tickets and picked up our audio headsets. My husband and I chose Spanish, while the kids used English. Although I can speak Spanish, I struggled to understand the audio tour. In hindsight, I picked English to learn more about the building.  

The kids weren't very impressed with the house, but my husband and I were in awe of the unique style and detail we have come to expect from Gaudí. I loved photographing each level, especially the chain-clad sculptural staircase. The ripple and shine of the metal, combined with the flow of the sculpture, were incredible. We concluded our visit in an immersion room where we experienced photographs and art flowing around us. My kids enjoyed this part the most. It was colorful, loud, and an experience that can't be fully described but must be felt. 

We went out for lunch nearby. It was quite easy to find gluten-free options in every city we visited on the trip. The EU requires restaurants to label their menus, and of course, many restaurants showcase their menus on the sidewalk. We sat and had our lunch and a glass of wine. A glass was only 3€, compared to four times that back home! We enjoyed our meal, and then my husband and the kids returned to the apartment. 

I set out to buy the Christmas gifts we had found the day before. For my daughter, I bought her a sparkly skirt that she had wished for and a play set of bags. Although they were meant for play makeup, she always has a collection of little treasures, so a clear plastic container to store them in would be a gift for everyone. For my son, thankfully, my husband found a Messi figurine at Camp Nou, the home of FC Barcelona. At my last shop, the cashier asked if we could speak in English, which disappointed me. However, I understood it was Christmas Eve; the line was long, and I didn’t know what he was saying. I switched back to English, finished my purchase, and walked away with a stronger determination to understand the language better.

I returned to find everyone enjoying some time “at home” by watching TV and taking a break from all the crowds. After dark, we bundled up and returned to Casa Batlló for the famous light show. The area around the building was already packed, and traffic flowed through the sea of sightseers. We found a spot by a tree and waited. Soon, the building lit up in time with the music, and the colored lights danced around the facade. The Spanish know how to put on a Christmas light show! The experience was nothing short of magical. After the light show, we finished our evening by walking along Passeig de Gràcia to see more decorations, many of which had gone unnoticed until they glowed in the darkness. We wandered back to our apartment and enjoyed charcuterie and a Spanish tortilla before settling in for the night. 

Day 14 - December 25

It was Christmas Day! Most places in the world celebrate Christmas, and it's a wonderful experience to celebrate the most famous holiday away from home. We set off that morning to Ciutadella Park, entering by the Arc de Triomf. We figured the park wouldn’t be closed, even on a holiday. We were right, and the path from the Arc to the park was packed with travelers and entertainers. There were musicians, bubble makers, and vendors. Unlike the famous Arc de Triomphe in Paris, the Arc in Barcelona is made of brick. It was built in the late 19th century as an entrance to the World’s Fair. 

Before we even walked through, several people asked me to help them take a photo. I usually don’t mind, but I have to resist saying I’m a photographer, or they might expect more than what I can capture on a phone camera. After a while, I just wanted to walk and enjoy the experience with my family. I left the crowd gazing at the height of the Arc and caught up with my family, who were enjoying the floating bubbles. It was a challenge to pull the kids away, but they finally fell in step with us, and we reached the entrance to the park.

As expected, the park was busy, but we still felt like we had plenty of space due to its size. We walked along the paths and admired the trees and the fountain. It wasn’t until we found a playground that the kids became excited. After the excitement of gifts that morning and our walk, sitting in the sun and watching the kids play for a while was nice. This space also allowed a moment for my husband and me to evaluate our trips. What did we like? What didn’t we like? What surprised us, and what did we expect?

Most importantly, we discussed which city had been our favorite to visit and why. I was surprised that my husband felt as connected to Málaga as I did. This synchronicity was remarkable, especially since we believed the other was likely attracted to a larger city like Madrid or Barcelona. This is precisely why it is important to visit places. Had we not explored the four major cities of Spain, we might have thought we liked a city but would have ended up disappointed. Neither of us considered Málaga, yet we fell in love with it.

We finally gathered the kids and started our journey back to the apartment. A forgotten jacket belonging to my son meant we had to retrace our steps to find the critical garment he had left lying by a bench. After seeing it, we returned to Passeig de Gràcia, the restaurant that offered several gluten-free options and a much-needed glass of wine. We wrapped up our Christmas Day outing at Jansana for a delightful merienda. We sat in the back and savored every bite of our pastries before returning to our apartment, ready for a little rest.

Day 15 - December 26

The following day, as I walked, I noticed the streets were eerily quiet. Many of the shops remained closed, and instead of charming storefronts, there were graffiti-covered doors barred and locked. I quickly learned that it was Saint Stephen’s Day, a remembrance of the first martyr, celebrated in Barcelona but not necessarily in other parts of the country. The streets seemed emptier than Christmas, which was a new experience. By lunchtime, some places had opened, including restaurants and small shops. We wandered down one of the streets near where we were staying and found an Italian restaurant with gluten-free items marked on their menu, where we could enjoy our lunch. 

We were seated, and the kids began eyeing the bowls of pasta. I let my son share my headphones, and we listened to the Chronicles of Narnia while we waited. This was an effort to help him sit still because he kept standing up and walking around, and we didn’t want him to disturb the other guests. We ordered, our menus were removed, and we sat waiting for food under scattered sunshine that flickered through the tree branches. After a few minutes, I reached out to grab my phone from the table, but it wasn't there. I scrambled to check my bag, the ground, and under my napkin but found nothing. I looked at my husband with wide eyes.  

“My phone is gone,” I said flatly.

He looked around in vain, hoping to see what I could not. We glanced down the street and then in the opposite direction. We had heard that sometimes travelers leave their phones on the table and covertly swipe them while people are distracted. Traveling with kids, I am constantly distracted, but my seat wasn’t next to the sidewalk. The other strange occurrence was that the book still played in my ear. It took several moments before I realized the sound wasn’t breaking up or cutting out. It had to still be nearby. Then I had a brainwave. We approached our waiter and explained the situation, and he sighed and looked down the sidewalk like us, believing someone must have swiped it. I asked him to check our menus, and he did as requested. Moments later, he returned with a menu and a big smile on his face. He offered me the menu, but before I could touch it, he opened it, and my phone was tucked between the pages. What a scare! Everyone, including our waiter, was relieved at the discovery. Our worry turned into laughter at the sequence of events, and we settled back to enjoy our food, thankful we didn’t suffer a costly loss.

We had another quiet day, playing games at home, enjoying a snack, and savoring our last night in Barcelona. Although we don't celebrate St. Stephen’s Day or Boxing Day, it was a good reminder and opportunity to spend time with family and relax after our busy outings. We did some preliminary packing and then put the kids to bed a little early (around 11 pm) while my husband relaxed with a bottle of wine, looking out the window and listening to the bustle of the city below. 

Day 16 - December 27

We were all worn out when we reached our last day in Barcelona. However, we felt our trip wouldn't be complete without visiting Park Güell, another famous site highlighting Gaudí’s distinctive architectural style. We took the train to the recommended stop, but we soon realized that most of the walk to the park would be uphill. There were escalators that helped, but everyone was tired when we reached the entrance. We had preordered our tickets, allowing us to bypass the line with a few dozen people waiting. If there’s one thing I learned from traveling in Spain, it’s the importance of preordering tickets.

We strolled around the grounds, admiring the unusual stonework of the Colonnade Pathway. We proceeded along the ramp, attempting to reach either the Mosaic Terrace or the Hypostyle Room filled with numerous columns. However, we encountered a dead end and had to turn back. We discovered another trail, but it turned out to be another disconnected path. The constant U-turns drained a lot of our energy. Eventually, we found our way to the path near the Gaudí Dragon and managed to locate the paths we were seeking. I let my son use my camera while my daughter borrowed my husband’s phone. This helped alleviate the growing irritability I could sense in both of my kids.  

We finally reached the terrace, and the views of the city were spectacular. It was warm, but having the sun shining on our faces was lovely, providing a little break after all the walking back and forth. There was joy in the experience, but weariness from travel lingered in our eyes. We walked down to the Hypostyle Room and wandered around the columns for a few minutes. I finally had someone take a family picture, and then we began the return journey. I hardly remember the walk back. We were all incredibly tired but thankful that the path was downhill. 

We rested and had lunch in the apartment. We all appreciated being off our feet for a while. We packed our bags and searched for little things we might have forgotten. After we felt prepared for our departure, we realized we still had time before we needed to leave for our hotel near the airport.  

We decided to return to the park near the Sagrada Familia. I still marveled at the cathedral as I rode the escalator up from the subway. The sun had nearly set, and the area was less busy than during our first visit. We strolled around the block of vendors first, looking for small items to bring home. Then, we let the kids run around the playground. My son found a friend in a boy who only spoke Catalan, but it didn’t matter. The boys ran and chased each other, throwing sticks and laughing together. My daughter played with some little girls and seemed happy to play quietly. My husband and I enjoyed watching our kids immerse themselves in a new environment. It was peaceful to watch families live their lives while we took a break from ours, even if we were ready to go home. 

After my son had run around the playground at least a couple of dozen times, we told the kids it was time to head back. They wanted to stay, but we still needed to travel that evening. We herded the kids through the subway, gathered our bags, and caught a taxi. Before long, we were dropped off in front of our hotel, a nondescript place but just right for an early departure to the airport the next morning. Our room was cramped with a queen bed and bunk beds. We let the kids watch School of Rock in Spanish, had a mediocre meal in the restaurant, and then we all went to sleep early.  

Day 17 - December 28

We needed to be ready for the airport shuttle at 6 a.m., a difficult request when we were used to getting up around nine or ten in the morning. The kids did well getting ready, and we quickly boarded the bus with a mix of early-morning travelers. I quietly settled back on the bus, gazing out at the grey-lit landscape and trying to soak up what was left of our visit. I was thankful to be returning to San Diego; I missed my home and some of the routine I was accustomed to. Yet, I also wished I could stay. I had connected with Spain in a way I had hoped for, but I hadn’t anticipated actually doing so. There was even a moment the day before when I turned to my husband and asked, “We have to go back, right?” He told me he felt the same way, but yes, we had to return. The light began to brighten as we approached the airport, and I started to prepare for the influx of travelers and busy airports.

Madrid to London went as smoothly as we could expect.  I felt a tug of regret for having to leave and enter back into the English world, but thankfully, our second time through Heathrow was without any problems.  Standing in the colossal airport, I recalled our rough experience at the beginning of our journey.  It seemed an age since that time with a sleep-deprived four-year-old, food poisoning, and every plane grounded.  I had lived fully in those two weeks away. I learned a great deal, realized I still had much more to learn, and felt richer because of the experience.

That is all anyone can hope for—a rich experience when traveling. Whether it's a good travel experience or a terrible one, likely a mix of both, one can only hope that the experience adds to one's life. It’s not something money can buy (although costs do come into play), but something to be lived. Additionally, it cannot be experienced digitally. No one can travel “in spirit” or “vicariously” through others' photos and experiences. Travel is a lived experience that pushes us out of our comfort zones and offers perspective, meaning, and growth.