STAY AT VALLE PARTANA

What do you do when grandparents offer to visit and watch the kids for the weekend?

For myself and my husband, we immediately looked at each other and said, “Valle!” The valley near Ensenada is Baja Wine Country and, in my opinion, far superior to our pockets of wineries here in Southern California. This rural spot has grown exponentially since we were first introduced to the area several years ago. Oh, and the food is marvelous.

The decision was made to stay at Hotel Partana which sits on the same property as Finca Altonzano and the much-lauded restaurant Animalón. Traveling to Baja in August meant that we could expect higher temperature so we were not going to hop from vineyard to vineyard across the stretch of Baja. That has been our usual mode because of our desire to enjoy particular vineyards at that given time. This time we chose to stick to, literally, the same road.

The first day we visited Casa Magoni, by chance, simply because it was on the same road as our hotel. A modern style, Magoni caught my attention and we figured we would stop and unwind before checking in. The vineyard had a small bodega at the entrance, but the tasting was set under a large tree, protected from the glittering sun. After driving and still adjusting to not having little ones in my ears I started to settle under the summer tree and began to enjoy a little relaxation, even amongst strangers. Our wine tasting complete and pleasantly reposed we left with a bottle of rosé.

We checked into the quiet Hotel Partana, a collection of half a dozen modernized, boutique rooms that fortunately included a pool that had recently opened. Comfortable, we took advantage of some quiet for some reading before our much-anticipated dinner at Laja. We chose to have the Chef’s Course Menu which consisted of several courses designed for that specific evening and season by the chef. The menu was a bit eclectic but good. Sardines with salsa, a whole fish, and dessert sorbet. I was slightly disappointed because I thought my expectations were different from actuality. The restaurant was quiet, only one other couple was present. At times, this kind of exclusivity could be romantic and ideal. In this particular case, it felt strange. Something of that sense was the feeling that the whole kitchen was waiting for us to finish each course, causing me to be a little anxious. In all fairness, it takes a day to peel off the layers of parenthood and revive a sense of couple interaction across a dinner table. This period of adjustment could certainly have affected my experience so perhaps another visit to Laja is in order, in a different season.

The following day was blazing hot and although eager to get out and enjoy the local vineyards, I was not rushing to get out the door. Having time to sleep in is a luxury and not rushing to feed hungry kids who are arguing with each other at the start of each day was a pleasant change of pace for one morning. We did eventually leave our place and ventured out intending to go down the road to Cieli Winery but as we traveled down the dirt road we saw a few signs stating wine tastings within. One, in particular, grabbed my attention in that it also claimed food was available. We turned around and the end of the road and returned to the drive of Haciendas las Ánimas and hoped for indoor accommodations. We were directed to the Cava Subterránea, a cool sanctuary from the heat, and a welcome retreat. The relief from the sun was immediate and we were escorted down into a cave-like room bedecked with curved ceilings of brick and old-world charms. Our vineyard expert and pourer for that late morning was so kind to indulge our desire to practice our Spanish and delivered his expertise as such.

After the beginning of our tasting and getting settled in, I completely forgot about food and sat back and enjoyed the flow of wine as it washed across the palate. My favorite was a bottle called Spirto, a vintage that was firm and yet deliciously smooth. The rosé before had already caught my attention, but Spirto swooped in and won the game of favorites. The fifth of six tastings was presented and I suddenly felt the lack of food more acutely. I quickly had to pivot and ordered a charcuterie platter to stave off giddiness and prevent a limitation of wine tasting for the rest of the day.

The remainder of our afternoon was time spent relaxing by the pool with a bottle of rosé conveniently provided in our hotel room fridge, with a cost of course. The pool was the perfect antidote for a hot August afternoon. We did eventually have to share the pool space, but that was no bother. Some people are social wherever they go. For myself and my husband, it depends, on interaction by interaction. We have met couples and families in Chicago, Mexico, and France. Sometimes we will talk about our children or share about our lives and sometimes we keep to ourselves. With this short trip, we kept to ourselves trying to allow room for the voice of the other and at times no sound at all.

That evening we had a meal at Animalón, an easy stroll from our little temporary abode. Between the five, eight, or twelve-course options we chose to partake in the eight-course menu. Each course was delightful although I thought the cassoulet was a lesser favorite. My husband is still set on visiting Finca Altozano, but Animalón was a lovely experience and a place I would like to try again. A fitting and delightful end to a last-minute weekend away.